Ciao amici,
Come state? I’m finally back home in Rome! Since I last wrote, I’ve been on our week-long tour in Puglia and then went to incredible Sicily for 10 days as a part work/part holiday trip. We landed back in Rome on Sunday and let me tell you - it’s getting very hot here. We’re buckling in for the rest of the summer in the eternal city (with some beach daytrips in-store hopefully!) I’ve got so much to fill you in on, so let’s jump in.
Meet dreamy Salina - the green Aeolian island
Ever since watching the Italian film Il Postino, I’ve been dreaming about going to Salina. It was two years in the making, but we finally got there this June! Pretty as a picture Salina is one of 7 of the Aeolian islands located in the north off the coast of Sicily and it’s full of malvasia grapes growing on the volcanic soil and capers sprawling off the walls.
All of the islands are located pretty close together, so if you spend a week there you can easily see at least the closest islands to Salina (Lipari, Panarea and Vulcano). Or, simply relax on a boat gliding through the deep blue waters Tyrrhenian Sea.
One thing I didn’t expect was to encounter so many Australians there! Whilst the island was still very, very quiet (peak season is July and August), it seemed that the only tourists there were fellow Aussies. Incredibly, it turns out that Australia is often jokingly referred to as the 8th Aeolian island because so many islanders migrated there due to the devastating effects of phylloxera which ripped through Europe in the late 1800s.
We loved our week in Salina swimming, eating fruit flavoured granita spooned into warm brioche buns for breakfast, delicious homegrown fruit and herb cocktails from a little lemon stand on the beach, boat tours, wine tasting, watching the pink sunsets as we zoomed through quiet streets on our scooter, chats with our neighbours (an adorable retired Italian couple- she’s Sicilian and he’s from Lombardy which would have been a rather unusual match for the times in which they married), and just peace and quiet.
In case you’re curious to visit too, have a read of my new blog all about what to do in Salina and beyond!
24 Hours in Palermo
After getting the ferry back to Palermo (just over 3 hours away), we had a final night in the wild Sicilian capital before flying home to Rome. I wouldn’t recommend a summer visit (it was incredibly hot and busy), but I would recommend seeing Palermo at least once in your life.
It’s loud, colorful, vibrant, full of strange sights and smells and I think my mouth was open wide in shock and amazement the entire time we were there. It’s not for the faint of heart, and you need to be aware that it is very dirty, and full of contrasts (crumbling down palazzi filled with exquisite art for example). I’ve got friends that love Palermo but I’ve equally got friends that hated it. Go in with the right attitude (and ideally not in the summertime) and you’ll be awed.
Whilst there we visited Teatro Massimo (the 3rd largest opera house in Europe! Do the tour, it’s amazing!), an incredible private collection of majolica tiles, the Ballarò market, climbed the roof to the cathedral, ate cannoli in Segreti del Chiostro, and enjoyed a delicious dinner at Corona Trattoria.
Inspired to visit with some extra guidance? Why not join our West Sicily Untold Italy tour!
Finally, a short note to let you know that I am turning on paid subscriptions this month for the price of a cup of coffee or tea. I’ll still send out free monthly emails to keep you up-to-date with all things Italy too. My paid newsletter will be sent out once a month. It will include wonderful Italian family recipes, exclusive travel content that I don’t publish on my blog and a reader Q&A for anyone who wants to send me a question about travelling in Italy/needs itinerary help (just reply to this email if you need something!). I’d love to see you there but appreciate you reading my free newsletters all the same!
Ciao for now,
Liv x